Things you have to know to pass the belay test:
- How to tie into the rope
- Climber / belayer safety checks
- Climber / belayer communications
- How to manage the belay and belay device (Grigri)
1. How to tie into the rope:
At Planet Granite, you are required to tie into the rope with a Figure 8 rethread backed up with a double fisherman’s (aka double grapevine) knot. One change from the video – tie the backup knot right on top of the Figure 8; don’t leave slack.
2. Climber / Belayer Safety Checks:
Climber checks Belayer’s harness for correct tightness of leg and waist loops and for doubled-back leg and waist loops (if applicable; some harnesses do not need doubling back). Also check that the Grigri is loaded correctly and that the belay biner is locked through the belay loop.
Belayer checks Climber’s harness for correct tightness of leg and waist loops and for doubled-back leg and waist loops (if applicable; some harnesses do not need doubling back). Also checks that the rope is threaded correctly through the harness loop(s) and that the Figure 8 and fisherman’s knots are tied correctly.
3. Climber / Belayer communications:
Getting ready to climb –
Climber: “On belay?”
Belayer: “Belay on!”
Climber: “Climbing?”
Belayer: “Climb on!”
During the climb –
Climber wants rope pulled up: “Take”
Climber wants slack in the rope: “Slack”
Climber is making a tricky move: “Watch Me!”
Climber knows they are falling: “Take”, “Falling”, etc.
At the top of the climb, or if climber wants to bail –
Climber reaches top of climb and wants to get ready to be lowered: “Got me?”
Belayer is ready to lower climber: “Got you”
Climber wants to be lowered: “Lower”
Climber wants to change speed of lowering: “Faster”, “Slower”, “Stop”
Climber is on the ground. Climber: “Off Belay” Belayer: “Belay Off”
4. How to manage the belay and belay device:
The belayer’s job is to manage the toprope and the belay device. The idea is to keep sufficient tension on the rope to prevent a big fall, but also not to pull on the climber and either unbalance them or assist in the climb by pulling the climber up the wall.
The belay device of choice is the Grigri by Petzl. The advantage of this device is that, used correctly, it will autolock during a lead fall. Note that this is no excuse for the belayer not to belay correctly at all times.
Assuming the belayer is right-handed:
Pull in rope – pull toprope with left hand, pull rope on other side of Grigri with right hand up and away from device. When it’s time to move the right hand back closer to the Grigri, catch the free end of the rope with a finger of the left hand, and without ever letting go of the rope with the right hand, slide the right hand closer to the Grigri. Repeat as necessary. This takes a little practice to do smoothly.
Let out rope – if the Grigri is unloaded (i.e., the climber has not fallen), pull rope out the climber side of the Grigri with the left hand while letting the rope slide through the right hand. The right hand never leaves the rope!
If the Grigri is loaded (i.e., the climber has fallen or is loading the rope while being lowered) it will be necessary to actuate the release lever on the Grigri. The climber’s weight should then pull the rope through the Grigri. Modulate the speed by changing the pressure on the release lever. Again, the right hand never leaves the rope!
Lefties follow the same instructions, but reverse the hands.
During the Belay Test, you will assume the roles of both the climber and the belayer. A Planet Granite staff will assume the other role. No coaching or instruction by non-Planet Granite staff is allowed.
Good luck!